PROJECT BRIEF
Derived from WGSN SS21 Trend Concept forecast titled 'Airy Sheers; Transform: Materials and textile', 'Gossamer' draws its inspiration from the technique of counted drawn-thread work (also known as Yarn Pulling), as practiced in traditional households to make handkerchiefs and doilies. The end product of a sheer poncho- like unstructured outer-wear garment focusses on combining elements of openwork with sheer fabric of Kota Doria to produce a garment characterised by a bohemian aesthetic with delicate details. Additional surface details include Gota-Kinari ribbon used as seam binding/piping material, and blanket stitch around the edges of the counted drawn-thread panel to provide stability of pulled yarn.
The project is based on the craft-based design project providing design intervention to Kota Doria fabric manufactured by skilled artisans on handlooms at Kaithoon cluster, located at a distance of approximately 30 kilometres from Kota, Rajasthan. The objective of this design intervention was to sensitise the students of NIFT towards the traditional craft of Kota Doria weaving and the corresponding artisans of the craft cluster through an in-depth study of the processes, techniques, current scenario of the crafts and the socio-economic conditions of the craftsmen by means of direct interaction with the craftsmen over a period of 1.5 months. It also aimed to give an insight into regional sensibilities, diversities, resources & environment. Furthermore, the intervention created an opportunity to work in collaboration with the artisans of the craft cluster, and aid them to promote themselves and their craft through implementation of various design skills and technology, combining age-old handicraft and modern design elements.
Counted Drawn-thread technique on Kota Doria fabric
Ideation Sketches based on Spanish Lace weaving technique and Drawn thread technique
Trial Samples (Spanish Lace weaving technique) self-woven on 16-shaft table-top loom using Polyester yarns (4 count & 2mm macrame polyester knitted cord)